City Centre and Several Hills

A sunny Durham afternoon, a few hills to climb, and a plan to visit some of the city’s finest pubs. What could be nicer?

Mr Flynn’s (The Big Jug)

Area: Claypath
Style: Irish theme pub, recently reopened
Visit order: 1

Mr Flynn’s opened a month or so ago as an Irish themed bar.  It’s looking pretty good and is set up for live music.  The upright piano on the wee stage is a nice touch.  There’s going to be electronic darts upstairs soon.  I missed out on a real ale as the single pump wasn’t ready, but the next two on were Clwb Tropicana and Titanic Plum Porter.  Sounds good to me.  There is still evidence of the Big Jug in the décor and signage, a nice touch.  One to keep an eye on.

The Victoria Inn

Elvet and Hallgarth Street

Area: Elvet
Style: Traditional multi-roomed pub
Visit order: 2

It’s a wee walk up the hill to the Victoria, but well worth it as you are greeted with several real ales and one of the most traditional interiors anywhere.  Three rooms, real fires and a beautiful bar back.  The fire was crackling away and the toasties being served looked, and smelled very tempting.  After enjoying a couple of beers (no toasties) here, it was an easier walk back to town.

Brewery	Beer	ABV
Hadrian Border Brewery	Grainger Ale	4.6%
Hadrian Border Brewery	Northern Pale	4.1%

Half Moon Inn

Area: Elvet
Style: Traditional pub
Visit order: 3

A traditional city pub refurbished a few years back and always with well kept ales.  Lovely outside area as well with views of the river and Old Elvet Bridge.  Bit chilly out despite the sunshine so a snug location in the back bar for a nice Bass.  As they say, “Hard work takes it out of a man, Bass puts it back”.

Brewery	Beer	ABV
Bass Brewers	Bass Premium Ale	4.4%

Back In The City Centre

The Shakespeare Tavern

Area: Bailey
Style: Traditional
Visit order: 4

Another real traditional location, a very small bar and an equally smalll back room.  All adds to the atmosphere.  There are three casks on, but the range can be a little limited.  That said, the Lightfoot was tasty enough to keep me going and the combination of locals and tourists sharing stories was a nice relaxing atmosphere.

Brewery	Beer	ABV
Theakston	Lightfoot	4.1%

Crossgate and the Viaduct

Holy GrAle

Area: Crossgate
Style: Micropub
Visit order: 5

Another hill, Durham is full of them, this time up Crossgate.  Holy GrAle is a micropub with a great range of keg beers and up until recently, one cask.  Happy to report that this is now two casks.  Tried both, neither disappointed.  A lovely relaxed atmosphere and another place to happily lose an afternoon in (without repeating a beer).  But, the Elm Tree was calling from only a few yards away.

Brewery	Beer	ABV
Allendale Brewery	Pennine Pale	4.0%
Two By Two Brewing	IPA	6.0%

Ye Old Elm Tree

Area: Crossgate
Style: Traditional Pub with Outdoor Seating
Visit order: 6

Another traditional venue, one that’s popular with both locals and students.  It was quieter than usual today as the students are on holiday although the locals kept things lively, plenty of laughter going round.  Quieter all round the town today.  Small city, large student population.  Both a positive and a negative.

Brewery	Beer	ABV
Full Circle Brew Co	Marmalade Mild	3.9%

The Station House

Area: Viaduct
Style: Award Winning Micropub
Visit order: 7

Is it a micropub?  Or, a small pub.  No matter, it’s a great location with great beer (and cider).  I managed to grab a seat by the window and got chatting to a gent who moved to Durham in the 1970s and made it his home since then.  I reckon that’s long enough to count as a local.

Brewery	Beer	ABV
Fyne Ales	No Nonsense	4.1%
Cullercoats Brewery	Polly Donkin	4.2%
Almasty Brewing Co.	DDH Simcoe	4.0%

Sunderland Road, Gilesgate

The Hop Knocker

Area: Gilesgate
Style: Micropub
Visit order: 8 and last

As it’s a mile or so up yet another hill, I decided to get the bus.  My plan was stymied by a road closure due to an Amazon delivery van and a police car having got a little intimate on Sunderland Road.  Bus diversion meant a bit more of a walk than expected.  At least the bus got me up the hill.  I stopped longer than anticipated in the Hop Knocker as the beer and conversation were both very good.

Brewery	Beer	ABV
Darwin Brewery	Three Rivers III	4.3%
Schneider Weisse	Hefeweissbier Naturtrüb (Keg)	4.9%
Wylam	Best (Keg)	4.5%
Twice Brewed Brewing Co.	Dog On A Skateboard (Keg)	0.5%

A fair hike out today, tempered with a range of beers both traditional and modern.  Durham may be small, but it punches above its weight for beer and there are still venues left for another time.  And then there are the out-of-town locations which may need a bit more planning.