Back Down The Pub

Author: BDTP

  • Sunderland #1 | March 2026

    A Stroll Through Central Sunderland

    A laid back visit to Sunderland, aiming for a couple of well-chosen ales.  The rain cleared by the time we approached the city and a patch of blue sky promised an easy stroll around the centre.  We didn’t hit every pub we’d have liked – so clearly, a return trip is inevitable.

    Sunderland: Keel Square and the Empire Theatre

    The Peacock

    Area: Keel Square/High Street West
    Style: Traditional style with food options
    Visit order: 1

    The bar of The Peacock pub in Sunderland showing assorted pumps and glasses

    I’ve always had a soft spot for a triangular building. The Peacock ticks that box beautifully – especially as there’s real ale on tap inside.  Perched just off Keel Square, which continues to improve with the redevelopment.

    It’s a great start to the crawl, especially today as there are home-made sausage roll samples on offer today. The ones with chorizo went down very well with the team.

    BreweryBeerABV
    Maxim BreweryIdaho 74.5%
    Pennine Brewing CoPacific4.1%

    The Dun Cow

    Area: Next door to the Empire
    Style: Traditional ale house
    Visit order: 2

    Exterior of the Dun Cow pub and Empire Theatre in Sunderland

    A legend of a location standing proudly next to the Sunderland Empire Theatre.  From the outside it’s striking, but inside, the bar back really steals the show. A tempting selection of craft and keg beers had us sampling a couple, the Anarchy Brew was outstanding.

    Ornate wooden bar back of the Dun Cow pub in Sunderland
    BreweryBeerABV
    Anarchy Brew Co.Backfire4.5%
    Wylde Sky BrewingGold4.0%

    Sunderland: Green Terrace, City Centre

    The Canny Lad (formerly Fitzgerald’s)

    Area: Central
    Style: Large bar with an Irish theme
    Visit order: 3

    Exterior of The Canny Lad pub in Sunderland with Irish Tavern graphic

    Renamed about a year ago, it still proudly bears its Irish Tavern identity.  Cosy and welcoming, with a mix of folk enjoying a variety of drinks.  Four kegs on the menu, all good.  We sampled two before moving on.

    BreweryBeerABV
    Three Brothers Brewing CoS’more Porter4.8%
    Stewart BrewingJack Black3.7%

    Sunderland, Park Lane Bus Station

    The Cooper Rose

    Area: Near Park Lane Bus Station
    Style: Wetherspoons
    Visit order: 4

    Exterior of Wetherspoons pub The Cooper Rose in Sunderland

    A busy Wetherspoons, buzzing with the promise of the afternoon deal (that’s why we had no real ale here).  The nationwide Spoons beer festival is imminent and the menu looks inviting.  I’ll be back to try a few during the festival period.

    BreweryBeerABV
    Erdinger WeissbräuErdinger Weißbier (bottle)5.3%

    M.O.D

    Area: Near Park Lane Bus Station
    Style: Military Themed Micropub

    Next door to The Gunners, M.O.D is all military, making it a fascinating stop even for non-buffs. It’s not every day you see a Gatling gun behind the bar.  The real ale selection is modest, but the price is keen and the decor more than makes up for it.

    Exterior of the M.O.D pub in Sunderland showing Union Flag signage
    BreweryBeerABV
    Timothy Taylor’s BreweryBoltmaker4.0%

    Chaplins

    Area: Near Park Lane Bus Station
    Style: Busy pub with outdoor seating
    Visit order: 6

    Exterior of Chaplin's pub Sunderland with home nations flags and exterior seating

    Always busy, always a reliable choice for quality real ales.  Luckily we snagged a table to enjoy our final beers with the bus station just next door ready to whisk us away.

    BreweryBeerABV
    Bowness Bay BrewingSwift Best3.8%
    Crafty Monkey Brewing CoReward IPA4.7%
    Bowland BreweryBuster IPA4.0%
    Today’s Summary
    Total Pubs: 6
    Total Beers: 12
    Cask: 11
    Bottle: 1
    Strongest: 5.3%
    Mildest: 3.7%

    There are plenty more pubs in Sunderland to (re)visit, but this short trip hit the spot perfectly. It wasn’t a monumental trek – just a quick, satisfying slurp around the city. Mission accomplished.

  • Carlisle #1 – February 2026

    Around Carlisle City Centre

    Arriving into Carlisle after a pleasant journey through the Tyne Valley from Newcastle, a chill in the air hinted at the rain to come.  Well, that and the weather forecast.  The pubs would keep us dry, on the outside at least.  An old mate on the train revived thoughts of a Hexham to Newcastle pub crawl.  Another one for the list.

    Arrival to Carlisle – First Few

    The Scott & Brassey

    Area: Carlisle Station
    Style: Railway, thoroughly modern gothic
    Visit order: 1 (and 10)

    Interior of the Scott & Brassey, Carlisle showing the bar and interior of the pub

    My welcoming committee met me from the train and manhandled me the few metres to the first bar which was just four days into its new life.  I’m told that it’s a great improvement on the previous incarnation, which was starting to look a little tired.  The Scott & Brassey is owned by the Lancaster Brewery and the bar was pouring their full core range of real ales.  As if that wasn’t enough, a couple of guest ales were also on show.

    BreweryBeerABV
    LancasterAmber3.6%
    Crooked River Brewing CoCalvert Trust Pale3.4%

    Carlisle – Botchergate

    Woodrow Wilson – Wetherspoons

    Area: Botchergate
    Style: Standard Spoons, local ales
    Visit order: 2

    A short hop through the back lane and we entered the first of today’s two Wetherspoons via the tradesmen’s entrance.  It’s strange that both Spoons are so close and on the same street.  In any case, it was good to see a selection of local ales alongside the Spoons staples.

    BreweryBeerABV
    Bowness Bay BrewingFell Walker4.1%

    BrewDog Carlisle

    Area: Botchergate
    Style: Soon to be closed
    Visit order: 3

    My first ever BrewDog pub, possibly my last given the news of closures that has just hit.  It was a complete contrast to the lively, busy pubs that we started with.  It gave us an opportunity to try a couple of their brews that I’ve not seen in other pubs.  We were set up nicely for a walk through the town.

    BreweryBeerABV
    BrewDogDank Marvin (keg)4.0%
    BrewDog DeutschlandMärzen Magic (keg)5.5%

    Carlisle – West Walls and Vicinity

    The West Walls Brewing Co.

    Area: City Centre, West Walls
    Style: Brewpub, former night club
    Visit order: 4

    West Walls Brewing Co fermenters inside the bar in Carlisle

    Ah, nostalgia.  I remember this as the Twisted Wheel and several “cultural” evenings spent there.  Significantly better beer on show here today and a very toasty feel given the heat coming from the fireplace.  Great pint.  With a wide selection of cask and keg available, I could have stayed all afternoon.  I didn’t but settled on a beer that has won “Champion Session Bitter” status.  I could taste why.

    The bar of the West Walls Brewing Co in Carlisle
    BreweryBeerABV
    Logan Beck BrewingProper Bitter4.0%

    The Sportsman Inn

    Area: Heads Lane, near the cathedral
    Style: Traditional, friendly, local
    Visit order: 5

    A traditional local location, just around the corner from the West Walls.  Had to make way for the dogs waiting patiently under the table whilst their owners enjoyed their ales.  Although you could happily lose an evening here, there was only time today for a quick one on the way to another traditional location.

    Exterior of the Sportsman pub in Carlisle
    BreweryBeerABV
    Carlisle Brewing CoSolway Gold5.0%

    The Kings Head

    Area: Central
    Style: Another traditional pub
    Visit order: 6 turning the corner

    A good mix of souls taking advantage of the hospitality in this proper boozer.  Plenty of woodwork and nooks and crannies for a conspiratorial chat over a good pint or two.  As ever, there were more beers that I’d have liked to try, but the road always beckons.  And in this case, food also beckoned.

    BreweryBeerABV
    Westgate BreweryClassic Blonde3.5%
    Cumbrian AlesEsthwaite bitter3.8%

    Carlisle – Back to the Centre

    The William Rufus

    Area: Central
    Style: Wetherspoons
    Visit order: 7 and some food

    Our second Spoons of the day and much busier than the first.  It took some creative thinking to get a table and some chairs.  Made it work.  Celebrated with a beer or two and a bite to eat.  Neither of the Spoons in Carlisle are architectural gems, but they do their job without complaint or compromise.

    BreweryBeerABV
    Bowness Bay BrewingSwan Blonde4.0%
    Erdinger WeissbräuErdinger Weißbier (bottle)5.3%

    The Thin White Duke

    Area: Central
    Style: A bar, a kitchen, good beer
    Visit order: 8 winding down

    There was some discussion about whether to visit here, as the hybrid bar/restaurant approach means standing around waiting to be seated.  That’s not normally a thing we’d consider.  After being shown to our seats, we got back up and went to the bar to order yet another locally brewed ale.  A slightly unusual experience, but the beer made it worthwhile.

    Three pints of real ale in branded glasses on the bar of the Thin White Duke in Carlisle
    BreweryBeerABV
    Cumbrian AlesLoweswater Gold4.3%

    Stanley’s

    Area: Central
    Style: Lively with entertiainment
    Visit order: 9 a fond farewell

    Last stop was at this Carlisle institution.  No cask ale, but a quick Guinness and some live music kept us right.  A short walk back to the station (and the Scott & Brassey), with the knowledge of a well managed session.

    Three pots of Guinness on the bar of Stanley's Pub in Carlisle
    BreweryBeerABV
    GuinnessGuinness Draft (keg)4.8%

    Map & Summary

    Today’s Summary
    Total Pubs: 9
    Total Beers: 13
    Cask: 9
    Keg: 3
    Bottle: 1
    Strongest: 5.5%
    Mildest: 3.4%

    I had high hopes for Carlisle, these were well met.  The concentration of Cumbrian breweries on the pumps made it more than worthwhile, a strong showing for the Border City.  A stand out pint of “Proper Bitter” was first among some great ales.  The two Spoons strategy managed to keep the list ticking over.

  • Newcastle & Gateshead #1 | February 2026

    Across The Tyne And Back

    An afternoon wandering the pubs around Central Station and across the Tyne in Gateshead, with one that remained just out of reach.

    Setting Off: Durham

    The Waiting Room, Durham Station (Platform 2)

    Area: Durham Station
    Style: Railway snug
    Visit order: 0 (ground zero)

    The Waiting Room Pub exterior at Durham Railway Station

    A pre-departure taster in the Waiting Room on Platform 2 of Durham station set the scene for today’s short trip north. A seat outside is always good here to watch arrivals and departures. Reunions and farewells playing out between announcements.

    Today was cold, so the snug interior beckoned.

    BreweryBeerABV
    WylamEuphoric3.7%

    Newcastle – Central Station

    The Bridge Hotel

    Area: Newcastle, near High Level Bridge
    Style: Traditional ale house, many real ales
    Visit order: 1 (and 4.5)

    The Bridge Hotel Newcastle with the High Level Bridge alongside

    Arriving into Newcastle Central only to head straight back across the river to the Railway Quarter of Gateshead. A fine scene for ale. Before braving the High Level Bridge, refreshments were in order at The Bridge Hotel.

    Later in the day we would return. I have a picture of my dad in this bar in 1966 on a bachelor do for a friend. Sharp suits, much sharper than us today. Some things change. Some stay reassuringly the same. Cheers Dad.

    BreweryBeerABV
    Abbeydale BreweryMagnolia3.9%
    Brew YorkDrakkar4.7%
    Fyne AlesJarl3.8%

    Gateshead: Railway Quarter & Town Centre

    Station East

    Area: Gateshead, near High Level Bridge
    Style: Traditional with a modern twist
    Visit order: 2

    Station East Exterior in Gateshead with outdoor seating

    On arrival to the south side we saw the busy Microbus and chose to leave it as a treat for the return leg. Instead we arrived at Station East.

    Weather was better on Tyneside, but we got surprisingly wet on the short hop over to the Central Bar.

    BreweryBeerABV
    Mountain MamaHowling Hops5.3%
    Brewing BrothersFugg Life4.1%

    Central Bar

    Area: Gateshead, Railway Quarter
    Style: Multi-room coffin shaped beauty
    Visit order: 3

    Bar of the Central Bar in Gateshead showing Real Ale pumps

    Plenty of opportunities to get lost in the snugs, rooms and bars of this place, especially on the way to the roof terrace. Given the weather, we kept to the bar.

    BreweryBeerABV
    Full Circle Brew CoMarmalade Mild3.9%
    Two By Two BrewingSession IPA4.7%

    Microbus (Attempt One and Two)

    Area: Gateshead Railway Quarter
    Style: Busy modern bar with a VW overload

    On first sight, Microbus was busy and bouncing, so we banked it for later.

    After a quick break in the Big W which provided fuel, practicality and a Punk IPA, we returned to find it even busier and a queue at the bar. Applauding its success, we passed this time and looped back to The Bridge Hotel for one more.

    Sometimes restraint is the better part of the session.

    The Tilley Stone

    Area: Gateshead Town Centre
    Style: Wetherspoon
    Visit order: 4

    Not a classic old building. Busy, found a table after some searching and a small compromise. The food came quickly and refuelled us nicely.

    BreweryBeerABV
    BrewdogPunk IPA (keg)5.2%

    Back To Newcastle: Around Central Station

    Beer Street

    Area: Behind Newcastle Central Station/Stephenson Quarter
    Style: Micropub with cerebral tendencies
    Visit order: 5 heading back

    Beer Street Exterior in Newcastle at dusk with barrels stacked outside

    Back in Newcastle we headed round the back of the station to Beer Street. Cerebral real ale bar that it is, there was a game of chess taking place front and centre.

    A place for considered drinking. We considered, we drank.

    BreweryBeerABV
    Marble Beers LtdRocket4.8%

    The Telegraph

    Area: Behind the Central Station
    Style: Traditional look, modern intent
    Visit order: 6th, on the final curve

    Along the road to the Telegraph, traditional in appearance but keeping up with the times, and still keeping a couple of cask ales on. A swift one and a check of the train times.

    BreweryBeerABV
    Cullercoats BreweryJack The Devil4.5%

    The Newcastle Tap

    Area: Newcastle Central Station, Neville Street
    Style: Cask-heavy ale bar
    Visit order: 7th and not quite last

    Newcastle Tap logo inside the Newcastle Tap Bar

    Good news was that there was time to head through the tunnel to the Newcastle Tap. A decision is never quick there, with hand pulls running the length of the bar. And then there are the keg beers.

    Choice can be a pleasant problem.

    BreweryBeerABV
    Two By Two BrewingDolcita Pale4.7%

    Centurion Bar

    Area: Newcastle Central Station
    Style: Historic station bar
    Visit order: 8th and last

    The Centurion Bar at Newcastle Central Railway Station showing a singer/guitarist under the tiled walls

    We must have been efficient as there was still time to take in a final brew whilst appreciating the tile work and music in the Centurion Bar at the railway station before heading home, with the knowledge of a good session well managed.

    BreweryBeerABV
    Pennine Brewing CoAmber Necker3.8%

    Map & Summary

    Today’s Summary
    Total Pubs: 9
    Total Beers: 13
    Cask: 12
    Keg: 1
    Strongest: 5.3%
    Mildest: 3.7%

    Newcastle and Gateshead can keep ale heads occupied for many visits without repeating a pub. We made a solid start around the station and across the Tyne into Gateshead. Plenty left for the next trip.

  • Durham #1 | February 2026

    Gilesgate To The Viaduct

    Some days call for the long haul. Others are better suited to a short wander and a handful of good pubs. Gilesgate offers a fine starting point for that sort of afternoon. A micropub, a couple of traditional locals and an easy walk to the city centre.

    This small crawl would end up becoming more than just a pleasant afternoon out. Somewhere along the route the thought occurred to me that these beers, places and pubs deserved writing down.

    The idea for this blog started to take shape here.

    Gilesgate. A Good Starting Point.

    The Hop Knocker

    Area: Gilesgate, Sunderland Road
    Style: Micropub
    Visit Order: 1

    Sampling the cask and a couple of kegs is always a treat, and today didn’t disappoint. This visit delivered both, plus a nostalgic Rohaus Märzen that, just for a moment, transported me straight back to the Black Forest.

    Bottle of Rothaus Märzen Beer at The Hop Knocker Durham
    BreweryBeerABV
    RothausMärzen (bottle)5.5%
    First & Last BreweryFallen Giant4.0%
    Spaten MünchenMünchner Hell (keg)5.2%
    To Øl#SIPA (keg)4.7%

    The Queens Head Hotel

    Area: Gilesgate, Sherburn Road Ends
    Style: Traditional/Sports Bar
    Visit Order: 2

    The Queens Head has been rebranded as more of a sports bar and this was my first visit since the change. Apart from the rather bright new exterior, the bar hasn’t changed too dramatically.

    No real ale here, but a serviceable Murphy’s did the job before moving on.

    BreweryBeerABV
    Heineken IrelandMurphy’s Irish Stout (keg)4.0%

    The Woodman Inn

    Area: Gilesgate (top of Claypath)
    Style: Traditional Pub with Beer Garden
    Visit Order: 3

    Great to see this place thriving. The Woodman usuallly keeps three real ales on the bar and it remains a dependable stop when walking down into town

    Two of them needed sampling, naturally.

    BreweryBeerABV
    The Consett Ale WorksRed Dust4.5%
    Timothy Taylor’s BreweryLandlord4.3%

    Into the City Centre

    From Gilesgate it’s a gentle stroll down Claypath (much easier than going up Claypath). Rhythm established. Short walk, pub, repeat.

    The Bishops’ Mill

    Area: Walkergate Development/Millennium Square
    Style: Wetherspoons
    Visit Order: 4

    Now the only Wetherspoons in Durham. As a Lloyd’s Bar it gets lively in the evenings. Time for a couple of brews before moving on.

    BreweryBeerABV
    Stewart BrewingKa Pai5.2%
    Hadrian Border BreweryTyneside Blonde3.9%

    The Station House

    Area: Under The Viaduct
    Style: Cosy pub
    Visit Order: 5 and last

    A real ale institution beneath the viaducy and a fitting place to finish. The Station House typically keeps five cask ales and rarely disappoints.

    What would Durham trip be without a visit here?

    BreweryBeerABV
    The Durham BreweryTotara3.9%
    GlassHouse Beer CoAltitude4.5%

    Map & Summary

    Today’s Summary
    Total Pubs: 5
    Total Beers: 11
    Cask: 7
    Keg: 3
    Bottle: 1
    Strongest: 5.5%
    Mildest: 3.9%

    A modest five-pub wander from Gilesgate into the city centre, but an enjoyable one. More importantly, it was somewhere between the first pint and the last that the idea emerged: to keep and share a record of these pub trips.

    Every crawl has to start somewhere.

    This one happened to start a blog as well.