Around Carlisle City Centre

Arriving into Carlisle after a pleasant journey through the Tyne Valley from Newcastle, a chill in the air hinted at the rain to come.  Well, that and the weather forecast.  The pubs would keep us dry, on the outside at least.  An old mate on the train revived thoughts of a Hexham to Newcastle pub crawl.  Another one for the list.

Arrival to Carlisle – First Few

The Scott & Brassey

Area: Carlisle Station
Style: Railway, thoroughly modern gothic
Visit order: 1 (and 10)

My welcoming committee met me from the train and manhandled me the few metres to the first bar which was just four days into its new life.  I’m told that it’s a great improvement on the previous incarnation, which was starting to look a little tired.  The Scott & Brassey is owned by the Lancaster Brewery and the bar was pouring their full core range of real ales.  As if that wasn’t enough, a couple of guest ales were also on show.

Carlisle – Botchergate

Woodrow Wilson – Wetherspoons

Area: Botchergate
Style: Standard Spoons, local ales
Visit order: 2

A short hop through the back lane and we entered the first of today’s two Wetherspoons via the tradesmen’s entrance.  It’s strange that both Spoons are so close and on the same street.  In any case, it was good to see a selection of local ales alongside the Spoons staples.

Brewery	Beer	ABV
Bowness Bay Brewing	Fell Walker	4.1%

BrewDog Carlisle

Area: Botchergate
Style: Soon to be closed
Visit order: 3

My first ever BrewDog pub, possibly my last given the news of closures that has just hit.  It was a complete contrast to the lively, busy pubs that we started with.  It gave us an opportunity to try a couple of their brews that I’ve not seen in other pubs.  We were set up nicely for a walk through the town.

Brewery	Beer	ABV
BrewDog	Dank Marvin (keg)	4.0%
BrewDog Deutschland	Märzen Magic (keg)	5.5%

Carlisle – West Walls and Vicinity

The West Walls Brewing Co.

Area: City Centre, West Walls
Style: Brewpub, former night club
Visit order: 4

Ah, nostalgia.  I remember this as the Twisted Wheel and several “cultural” evenings spent there.  Significantly better beer on show here today and a very toasty feel given the heat coming from the fireplace.  Great pint.  With a wide selection of cask and keg available, I could have stayed all afternoon.  I didn’t but settled on a beer that has won “Champion Session Bitter” status.  I could taste why.

Brewery	Beer	ABV
Logan Beck Brewing	Proper Bitter	4.0%

The Sportsman Inn

Area: Heads Lane, near the cathedral
Style: Traditional, friendly, local
Visit order: 5

A traditional local location, just around the corner from the West Walls.  Had to make way for the dogs waiting patiently under the table whilst their owners enjoyed their ales.  Although you could happily lose an evening here, there was only time today for a quick one on the way to another traditional location.

Brewery	Beer	ABV
Carlisle Brewing Co	Solway Gold	5.0%

The Kings Head

A good mix of souls taking advantage of the hospitality in this proper boozer.  Plenty of woodwork and nooks and crannies for a conspiratorial chat over a good pint or two.  As ever, there were more beers that I’d have liked to try, but the road always beckons.  And in this case, food also beckoned.

Brewery	Beer	ABV
Westgate Brewery	Classic Blonde	3.5%
Cumbrian Ales	Esthwaite bitter	3.8%

Carlisle – Back to the Centre

The William Rufus

Area: Central
Style: Wetherspoons
Visit order: 7 and some food

Our second Spoons of the day and much busier than the first.  It took some creative thinking to get a table and some chairs.  Made it work.  Celebrated with a beer or two and a bite to eat.  Neither of the Spoons in Carlisle are architectural gems, but they do their job without complaint or compromise.

Brewery	Beer	ABV
Bowness Bay Brewing	Swan Blonde	4.0%
Erdinger Weissbräu	Erdinger Weißbier (bottle)	5.3%

The Thin White Duke

Area: Central
Style: A bar, a kitchen, good beer
Visit order: 8 winding down

There was some discussion about whether to visit here, as the hybrid bar/restaurant approach means standing around waiting to be seated.  That’s not normally a thing we’d consider.  After being shown to our seats, we got back up and went to the bar to order yet another locally brewed ale.  A slightly unusual experience, but the beer made it worthwhile.

Brewery	Beer	ABV
Cumbrian Ales	Loweswater Gold	4.3%

Stanley’s

Area: Central
Style: Lively with entertiainment
Visit order: 9 a fond farewell

Last stop was at this Carlisle institution.  No cask ale, but a quick Guinness and some live music kept us right.  A short walk back to the station (and the Scott & Brassey), with the knowledge of a well managed session.

Brewery	Beer	ABV
Guinness	Guinness Draft (keg)	4.8%

Map & Summary

I had high hopes for Carlisle, these were well met.  The concentration of Cumbrian breweries on the pumps made it more than worthwhile, a strong showing for the Border City.  A stand out pint of “Proper Bitter” was first among some great ales.  The two Spoons strategy managed to keep the list ticking over.